Well last time out I landed on my rear pretty hard and managed to rip the traction bar bracket from the axle, caused all kinds of carnage.

Well I am thinking about redoing it so it is directly in the middle of the axle, above the pumpkin. I think I can get away with a truss and hard mounting (welding) the end of the traction bar directly to the truss. I will still run double hiems on the other end.

I think this will end up giving me the best flex (biggest problem I have with the current setup) and still keep the pumpkin from pointing skyward.

Thoughts?

No reason it shouldn't work.
If you remember, mine was solid mounted, as well.
Less components to break.

I think it'll work. I do now that I periodically have to adjust my bushings as my springs sag. So I don't know if that will play a part. But I wish I had built mine that way. I have over $100 in joints in mine where I could have had a single bushing and been done like Terry's.

I think mounting it directly over the cl of the axle will do a lot to eliminate binding....... I backed the heep off the bus today and backed it into the garage, starting to think about where to start cutting.

I want to re-do mine because of the crappy anti-squat that it has.

I keep telling myself that I already have 4 flex joints, and a pile of heims lying around... all I need is 2 more airshocks!

I think the same way but I also think I am not going to invest much moreinto this pile.....She goes pretty good with the rear leafs.

I'd go back to leafs in the rear if i could.

your rig is well suited for leaf springs...

tall, top heavy...

I think my rig being lower, and my lack of concern for the body will allow my rig to perform better with a 4 link, or 3 link rear than it does with the leaves...

New traction bar is done, directly in the center of the heep. flexs like mad now. Will get pics up soon.

Waiting for the pictures, might try this type set up on the new rig.

two weeks later here they are, main tube is 1.75 x .188 wall square tube is 2" x 120 wall with 3/16 1x1 angle welded to the bottom.

The "bridge" is welded to the punkin and both axle tubes.

yes the rear of the traction bar square tube is welded directly to the dif cover, will be modified if I ever change the oil in it...........

That "wet" look on the back of the punkin is motorcycle chain lube, I figured that should hold up pretty well.

Wow, I wasn't expecting the slip and twist TB.
I'm a big advocate of them.

I like how you ran it.
My only concern is the strength of the square tube, as it looks rather thin and there is a welded seam along the side.
I hope it doesn't decide to split along the seam.
Ideally, I'd like to see the square tube with a thicker wall (like 3/16" or 1/4") and longer. The longer the better.
Adding length to it will make the round tube (which does look adequate, maybe) less prone to bending at the insertion point.
Torque and traction are a bitch on parts like this.

If I remember correctly, mine was 1/4" wall square tube and 1/2" wall round tube and I never had any signs of wear.




Edit: thread added to stickied tech topics.

I wanted to use 2x2"x1/4 wall square with 1.5" 1/4" wall dom but I didn't have any 2x2x1/4 at the time. The highest stress on the square will be at the bottom right where the round goes into it. I reinforced that area and it is welded directly to the the "truss" bar. I am def going to keep an eye on it and modify as needed.

Next up, cutting brakes. Having the traction bar where it is will allow me to mount the cutting brakes between the seats and run the hard line down the traction bar to the axle.

Ride report, tbar worked great, will have to go with heavier wall tube and long square tube as the round tube has a slight bend to it.

But overall if you are going to run leaf springs this is the way to go with a traction bar.